LG Appliance Error Code Library

The washer failed to drain within the allotted time. Check for a kinked drain hose, clean the pump filter (behind lower front access panel on front-loaders), and ensure the standpipe is no higher than 96". Persistent OE usually means a failed drain pump motor.

The drum is unbalanced and the washer paused the spin cycle for safety. Redistribute the laundry and restart. Persistent UE on balanced loads may indicate worn suspension rods (top-loaders) or failing shock absorbers (front-loaders).

The Direct Drive motor is locked or stalled. Common causes: a jammed drum (check for foreign objects between drum and door gasket), a faulty hall sensor (rotor position sensor), or a failing stator. This code is specific to LG's Direct Drive motor technology.

The tub has overfilled — the water inlet valve is not closing completely. Disconnect power immediately and call a technician. A stuck-open inlet valve can cause flooding. Do not restart the machine.

The door is not fully closed or the door lock assembly has failed. Ensure no laundry is caught in the door seal. If the door closes firmly but dE persists, the door latch hook, the door switch, or the door lock PCB requires replacement.

The door was detected as open while the washer was running. This is a safety lockout. Ensure the door is firmly latched. If the code appears without the door being opened, the door switch or the main PCB's door-lock input circuit is faulty.

Water is not entering the drum within 4 minutes. Check that both hot and cold shut-off valves are fully open, inspect the inlet hose screens for mineral deposits, and verify household water pressure is at least 14.5 psi. If all are OK, the water inlet valve solenoid has failed.

The water temperature NTC thermistor is reading outside its normal resistance range (open or shorted). The washer cannot regulate wash temperature. Thermistor replacement is a straightforward repair.

Variant of tE specific to the inlet temperature thermistor. Indicates the sensor measuring incoming water temperature has failed. Common on LG washer-dryer combo units (WM6998HBA, WM1455HNA).

The water level pressure sensor is not responding correctly. The washer may overfill or underfill. The pressure sensor hose may be kinked or the sensor itself has failed. This code is common on older LG top-load models.

Excessive current detected in the motor drive circuit. Can indicate a wiring short to ground, a failing motor inverter board (IPM), or a damaged motor winding. Requires professional diagnosis with a multimeter.

Power was interrupted during a cycle. This is informational — restart the cycle. If PF appears frequently without power outages, the power supply board or the household circuit breaker is intermittently failing.

Too many suds are preventing proper drum rotation. Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergent and reduce the amount — LG recommends 1–2 tablespoons for most loads. The washer will add extra rinses automatically. Using non-HE detergent voids service warranties.

The main control board cannot communicate with the inverter motor. Check for a loose motor wiring harness connector. If the connection is secure, either the inverter board or the main PCB has failed.

The motor speed sensor (tachometer) is not sending feedback to the control board. The washer cannot regulate drum speed safely. Requires replacement of the hall sensor or the tachometer generator depending on the motor type.

LG Flow Sense has detected the exhaust duct is approximately 80% blocked, reducing airflow and drying efficiency. Clean the lint filter and inspect the full duct run from dryer to exterior vent. Restricted ducts are the leading cause of dryer fires.

Flow Sense is reporting 90% duct blockage. The dryer will continue to operate but drying times are severely impacted and fire risk is elevated. Professional duct cleaning is strongly recommended before next use.

Critical duct blockage detected. The dryer will not start until the blockage is cleared. This is a safety lockout. Do not attempt to bypass. Have the duct professionally cleaned and inspected before resuming use.

The exhaust air temperature thermistor (outlet sensor) is reading out of range or is open-circuit. The dryer cannot regulate exhaust temperature safely and will shut down. Sensor replacement is a standard repair.

The inlet air temperature thermistor is faulty. This sensor monitors the temperature of air entering the drum. Common on LG gas dryers (DLGX series) when exposed to extreme cold air.

The drum temperature sensor is faulty. Found on LG steam dryers (TurboSteam series), this sensor ensures steam does not overheat the drum. Requires sensor replacement.

A reminder that the lint filter requires cleaning. This is a maintenance alert, not an error. Clean the filter and press Start to clear. On LG condensation dryers, also clean the condenser filter.

The dryer is not receiving the correct 240V power. This usually means one of the two hot legs at the outlet is not making contact — a loose wire at the terminal block, a blown dryer-leg fuse in the panel, or a defective outlet. Have an electrician inspect before calling for dryer service.

Power was cut during a drying cycle. The dryer will restart from where it paused if power is restored. Frequent PF codes indicate a loose power connection or an intermittent household circuit breaker.

The defrost heater circuit is open. Ice will accumulate on the evaporator coils, blocking all airflow and causing the freezer and refrigerator to warm. The defrost heater element or the defrost thermostat (limiter) has failed. Very common on LG French Door models.

The freezer evaporator fan motor is not operating. Without this fan, cold air cannot circulate and both compartments will warm. The motor or its wiring harness has failed. Also check for ice blocking the fan blade (related to a defrost system failure).

The fresh-food section evaporator fan has failed. The refrigerator section will warm while the freezer may maintain temperature. Common on LG multi-evaporator models (French Door, Counter-Depth series).

The main control board has lost communication with the display board. This can cause erratic behavior, incorrect temperature readings, and loss of control panel function. Usually requires replacement of the main PCB or the display board, or re-seating the communication wiring harness.

The ice maker temperature sensor is faulty or out-of-range. The ice maker cannot determine the correct freeze cycle endpoint and will stop producing ice. Sensor replacement restores function.

The humidity sensor inside the fresh-food section is faulty. This sensor helps LG Smart Cooling maintain optimal humidity for produce freshness. An Er HS code may cause the linear compressor to run more frequently than needed.

The freezer compartment NTC thermistor is out-of-range or open. The compressor may run continuously in an attempt to reach the set temperature. Thermistor replacement is a quick repair.

The ice maker harvest motor or its gear assembly has failed. Ice may be produced but the ejector cannot sweep it into the bin. The ice maker module assembly requires replacement.

The dedicated ice maker evaporator fan (on dual-evaporator models) is not running. Ice production will slow or stop completely. Common on LG InstaView Door-in-Door models with separate ice maker compartments.

The condenser fan is not running. Without it, the compressor overheats and the unit cannot cool. The condenser fan motor (located near the compressor at the bottom-rear) has failed or is obstructed by debris.

Refrigerator compartment sensor 1 is faulty. Found on LG side-by-side and column models. The sensor measures air temperature at the evaporator outlet. Replacement restores accurate temperature control.

Refrigerator compartment sensor 2 (typically the return-air or ambient sensor) has failed. Works in conjunction with Er 1F diagnostics on multi-sensor LG models.

The dishwasher did not fill to the required level within the allotted time. Check the water supply shut-off valve under the sink, inspect the inlet hose and screen filter, and verify household water pressure. If all are normal, the water inlet valve solenoid has failed.

The dishwasher cannot drain within the required time. Clean the triple filter system (mesh filter, coarse filter, micro filter — all located in the bottom of the tub), check the drain hose connection at the garbage disposal or air gap, and inspect for hose kinks.

The overflow float sensor in the base pan has detected water beneath the tub. The dishwasher will drain and lock out. Do not restart. Inspect the door gasket, the spray arm seals, and the pump housing for leaks. Tilt the unit forward slightly to drain the base pan, then locate the leak source.

The QuadWash pump motor is drawing too much current or has stalled. A foreign object (glass fragment, broken plastic) lodged in the pump impeller is a common cause. Power cycle the dishwasher and check for debris. If the code persists, the wash motor assembly requires replacement.

The heating element or NTC thermistor has failed. Dishes will not dry properly, high-temperature sanitize will be unavailable, and water temperature will not reach the required 150°F for the sanitize cycle. Element or thermistor replacement restores full function.

The dishwasher has overfilled. The water inlet valve is not closing properly. Disconnect power and call for service. Do not restart the machine as continued overflow can damage flooring.

The water temperature NTC thermistor is faulty. The dishwasher cannot verify water is reaching the correct temperature for the selected cycle. Heater-based cycles (sanitize, heavy duty) will be disabled as a safety measure.

A button on the control panel is stuck or shorted. The dishwasher cannot accept new commands. Try pressing each button firmly to free any that may be stuck. If the error persists, the control panel membrane or the PCB requires replacement.

The diverter motor (which routes water to different spray levels in QuadWash models) has failed or is not receiving a position signal. The lower spray arm levels will still function but QuadWash pressure will be reduced.

The main oven control board (ERC) has detected an internal fault or has received conflicting input signals. Power cycle the range (unplug for 60 seconds). If F1 returns, the control board requires replacement — it cannot be repaired.

The oven temperature has exceeded the safe limit (approx. 590°F / 310°C in bake mode). The oven will lock and shut down as a safety measure. A stuck relay on the control board keeping the element energized, or a short in the bake element itself, is the usual cause.

The RTD oven temperature sensor probe is open-circuit — measuring infinite resistance. The oven cannot regulate temperature and will not heat. The sensor is a simple plug-in probe at the back of the oven cavity; replacement takes approximately 30 minutes.

The oven temperature sensor is reading near-zero resistance (shorted). The control board will interpret this as an extremely low temperature and may run the element continuously, creating an over-temperature risk. Replace the sensor immediately.

The oven door latch motor is not completing its travel during a self-clean lockout cycle. The latch motor, latch switch, or the latch assembly mechanism has failed. Do not force the door open if it is locked.

The door lock failed to engage or disengage during a self-clean cycle. Similar to F5 but specifically triggered during the locking phase rather than the unlock phase. The latch assembly requires service.

A key in the membrane keypad or touch panel is stuck or has shorted to adjacent circuits. The oven will not accept commands. Clean the panel surface with a damp cloth. If SE persists, the control panel membrane requires replacement.

The humidity sensor (used in Sensor Cook modes) is not responding. Auto-sensor cooking features will be disabled. Manual cooking modes still work. Sensor replacement is required to restore auto-cook functionality.

The turntable motor is not receiving a signal or has failed. The rotating tray will not turn, causing uneven heating. Check that the turntable coupling and glass tray are properly seated. If the motor itself has failed, it is a low-cost replacement part.

The power relay or triac controlling the magnetron circuit has failed. The microwave may run (light, turntable) but produces no heat, or may not power on at all. This requires professional repair — microwave HV capacitors retain lethal charge.

One or more of the three door safety interlock switches has failed. The microwave cannot confirm the door is safely closed. This is a safety-critical fault — never bypass the door switches. One of the three switches (primary, secondary, or monitor) requires replacement.

Found on LG inverter microwaves (NeoChef series), this indicates a fault in the inverter power board that regulates magnetron output. Inverter boards allow precise power control at all levels. Requires inverter board replacement.

The defrost heater circuit is open inside the column freezer. Ice accumulates on the evaporator, eventually blocking all airflow and warming the unit. The heater element or defrost thermostat requires replacement.

The evaporator fan in the column freezer has failed or is blocked by ice (usually from a defrost system failure). The fan must move air over the evaporator coils to transfer cold — without it, temperatures rise rapidly.

The oven temperature sensor probe in the wall oven is open-circuit. The oven cannot control heating safely and will display F3 and stop. The sensor probe is accessible from inside the oven cavity.

The self-clean door latch mechanism is not completing its cycle. The latch motor, latch switch, or latch assembly requires service. Do not force the door open if locked.

The wall oven temperature exceeded the safety threshold. A stuck relay on the control board or a shorted bake element is the usual cause. The door will lock until the oven cools below the threshold.

An induction coil or its driver circuitry has failed on the CBID3625S or LCE3610SB. The affected zone will not heat. Other zones may still operate. Requires replacement of the induction coil board for the affected zone.

The induction cooktop cannot detect ferromagnetic cookware on the selected zone. Ensure you are using magnetic cookware (test with a refrigerator magnet — it should stick to the base). This is not an error but a user notification.

The induction cooktop PCB temperature sensor detected an overheat condition. This can occur if cookware boils dry or is too small for the selected zone. Remove cookware and allow to cool. Ensure ventilation beneath the cooktop is not blocked.